Celebrating a return

I am sitting on the upper deck of the M/V Grande Mariner in the Oswego Harbor looking out at Lake Ontario.  My perch is one of two spaces that jut out slightly behind the pilothouse on either side of the ship.  This morning I have chosen the port side (think left; both words having four letter is how I came to remember it) since the lighthouse, a small double structure of dwelling and light, both white and roofed in red, is on this side.  It sits on a long breakwater which curves into the mouth of the Oswego River from the west.  Its right side will be illuminated soon as dawn gives way to daylight and the sun rises.  It is 5:30; we are departing at 6:00.  Our destination today is Rochester.

Since we left home last Sunday, I have been keeping the journal as usual and camera use has been high.  No surprise there.  Computer time has been another thing all together.  The choice made itself.  The rivers we have sailed – the East, the Hudson, the Mohawk and the Oswego—and the canals we have navigated – the Erie and the Oswego – have claimed my near complete attention.  The weather over these days has been variable: wet to dry, cold to hot, overcast to sunny.  With foul weather gear I have been able to be out in most of it, drinking in the landscape along the rivers and marveling at the rise and fall of the ship in the locks.  There simply hasn't been time for computers.

In both sets of locks we have been something of a spectacle, being the first cruise ship to use the New York State Canal System this season.  At almost every lock there were a few locals ready to watch us lock through.  But, no place along the system could top the greeting our ship received in Waterford where the Mohawk joins the Hudson. 

We were escorted from the Federal Lock just north of Troy to Waterford, the canal's official beginning, by a large tug boat where a cluster of state and local dignitaries, the president of Blount Small Ship Adventures, a knot of television crews and reporters and onlookers of all ages awaited us.  Waterford’s fire truck pumped a long arc of water into our path.  The return of the Grande Mariner to the canal system was an event of special note.

Last year this time Tal and I were on her first Warren RI to Chicago IL run of the season.  Because of heavy springtime flooding in the northeast the Erie Canal opened late.  We entered it on its opening day.  But the water on the Oswego Canal was still too high for the ship to use and our itinerary was adjusted rather severely.  (A tour of historic waterways by bus was an interesting turn of events.  More about that in Meanderings from 17 May to  2 June.) 

Then, on Blount’s last runs of the 2011 season two of their three ships encountered Hurricane Irene and Tropical Storm Lee while in the canal system.  The passengers required rescue, the ships ended up trapped for 70 days and the state of New York spent millions repairing the locks and canal enough to free them.  Hence, the celebratory flay waving at the advent of the 2012 cruise season.

After all that a celebration and some handshaking was in order.  I decided it was a good sign; Tal and I should sail all the way to Chicago on this try.  It was our celebration, too.

Favorite image

During the early afternoon a storm began brewing.  For many miles we enjoyed dramatic blue skies with huge, towering clouds.  Conditions aligned and we encountered hard rain after Lock E-21, the first of the two descending locks before reaching Sylvan Beach.  The rain suited my sad mood every well.  But, retreating into the lounge did not.

When the rain tapered off, I stepped back out on deck and photographed one of two nearly identical bridges between the last lock and the lake -- the Vienna Higgensville Road or the Cove Road, both of Pennsylvania through-truss design.  Even with raindrops disturbing the water's surface, the light had come up sufficiently to provide wonderful reflections, interestingly only of the structure's vertical rods, not of its overall shape.

Little Falls to Sylvan Beach: a last day afloat

I would be lying if I claimed that today's arrival is OK with me. These past several days travelling by boat have been such fun and so easy. I appreciate having a room where all our stuff stays; I appreciate being able to retire there when the company gets to be a little much; I appreciate not having to comply strictly to a schedule. And, all that ends first thing in the morning. But, we have today and my task -- and I did choose to accept it -- has been to engage the day. But, to risk a touch of melodrama, I have been aware that I've been doing some things I have liked so much for the last time.

This is the lounge shortly after 7:00AM, featuring the big, popular coffee urn and morning activities, like reading, checking e-mail, the jigsaw puzzle in the left front, the daily newspaper thanks to, Lisa, our early-rising cruise director,
conversation.

Our departure was leisurely, our travel distance less than 50 miles with four locks to negotiate.  Tal and I enjoyed another walk around the harbor, noting that all the watercraft we saw at nightfall had departed, leaving the dock empty except for the Grande Mariner. 

At Lock E18 shortly after we left Little Falls the canal parted company with the Mohawk, the river off on our starboard side turning into a meandering, fly-fishing stream beyond that point.  For the only time this trip we shared a lock with another vessel, the occupants looking not quite at ease with the situation.  Once the lift was done, the Irresistable moved out with haste and we didn't see it again.

I know those folks were silently pleading "close gate, quick, close the gate!"



And, I love the looming shadow cast by the bow of the Grande Mariner.

Railroad bridge and doors to Lock E19

The approach to Lock E19 looked ominous, boasting the lowest bridge we would encounter with a clearance today of 21 feet.  We proceeded under with care, the captain noting that all we would need was a train to take to the bridge at that moment, which would lower the bridge as much as an inch.  It was close.  We eased into the lock with a train crossing the bridge behind us.

Today's section of the canal is straight and on the industrial side in some places and remote-looking in others.  We passed viewing stands with waving locals, fishermen (and women) in the shade of bridges, dredging crews.  We encountered lowering clouds and rain, debris in the high water (a water heater being the most unusual item), wildlife.  I only left the deck for lunch and to begin packing.

Approaching Lock E21

At Lock E21 we locked through down rather than up, a mementous moment meaning that we were nearing Sylvan Beach.  It felt sort of odd, the disappearing from view rather than rising into view.  That sad sentiment was hard to shake, but I had help (see below).

Here's Tal doing his best to keep me cheerful! I can't resist that cute face.



So, like it or not, we arrived in Sylvan Beach for the night.  We docked alongside an RV park.  While our appearance was something of a novelty, when the park's residents learned the boat could be there from three days to a week, they were not thrilled, since the Grande Mariner blocks the view of the the water for some 85 feet.   It's hard to fathom that they didn't like it as much as I do!

The RV park residents prefer this to my boat?  Makes a girl wonder ...

Evening in Little Falls



By the time Tal and I returned from our
stroll the tender, the Egret, had been
launched and repairs were underway.

Once through Lock E17 arriving at the Little Falls Canal Harbor took less than half an hour.  It had been a good day, but many of us were ready to go for a walk.  Rather than explore the harbor, hike to the falls, investigate the neighborhood, however, the first thing most of us did was walk to the bow of the boat to check out the damage from mid-day -- to the captain's good-natured horror.  His words were and I quote, "Oh, you don't want to go up there."  But, of course, we wanted nothing more.

The walk was invigorating even though we had no idea where we were going.  The double tracks that had provided my lullaby last night were still across the Mohawk from us.  Train traffic continued to be steady, but moved much more sedately given being in town and the grade involved.  We passed over an old section of the Erie Canal.  And, here's a building I found especially intriguing -- for the shadow-patterns cast by the light fixtures and the doors on the second floor.

The harbor was crowded with boats headed west into the Great Lakes and other locales for the summer.  After supper aboard the Grande Mariner I went back out to enjoy some evening photography and was treated to a rather dear sight: a covered dish dinner.  Folks from the six or so vessels moored for the night pooled their resources and met for conversation and a meal on the large after-deck of one of the boats.  I understand that often those traveling the canal at the same time strike up friendships and end up staying together and looking out for each other until reaching their various destinations.  Anyway, good scents and lots of laughter.  The way life is supposed to be.

I had a wonderful time with the tripod and camera before dark, as you can see.

The Mohawk River, looking west from the beyond where the Grande Mariner was moored for the night.

A detail of the fountain near the entrance to the Little Falls Canal Harbor.  I had to stay out until after 8:00 for the light to fade enough for the length shutter speed I wanted.  The harbor master left the water on until I'd finished.

We were treated to musical entertainment for a second night in a row.  Of course, it wasn't supposed to happen that way, a near double-feature.  On the long-forgotten original schedule we were to have heard Skip Parsons late last week.  Mike Kornrich wasn't supposed to entertain us until we reached Rochester -- where we are now not going.  To their credit, these two drove the three hours from Rochester to Little Falls.  They were terrific. 

High and lifted up

Since turning left on the Hudson into the mouth of the Mohawk, we have been hearing about Lock E17.  It's legendary, with a 40.5 foot lift, half again as high as any along the canal.  When it was built, it replaced four locks.


And, it's imposing, looking like a huge concrete box with a door at the bottom -- which it is.  Showing below the green girder with the "17" painted on it in the image to the right is the counterweighted 150-ton door which lowers to hold water in the lock.  On approaching that gaping entrance and looking inside, the other end of the concrete box has look doors high on the wall. 

Easing in

Looking east from the top of Lock E17
Note the counterweight immediately under the "17" and the NY169 bridge swooping across the river in the distance.



A detail of one of the pair of chains
which control the downstream door
of Lock E17.



Looking toward Little Falls
The cliff to the right of the river is a popular rockclimbing spot. Boaters look at the climbers and climbers looks back at the boaters. 



Billowy clouds and blue skies

The excitement at Lock E-14 was short-lived and we sailed through the afternoon, literally and figuratively.  For a time, after the lock at Fort Plain (E15), we and the Mohawk River parted company, joining once again just beyond Five-Mile Dam at Indian Castle.

A few photographs from those hours will give a sense of the scenery and spare you (and me) any more words.

Looking across the front of the freshly-painted dam at Lock E15.  The farm on the far side of the river gives an indication of the richness and the beauty of the Mohawk River valley.  Sam, our historian, reminds us repeatedly that at the time the Erie Canal was built and into its mid-1800 heyday, there would have been no trees in sight, everything having been cut for fuel and building material.  What we see now is just over 100 years of growth.



We have lifted about eight feet, awaiting the opening of the gates and the continuation of our journey.  The lock-keepers on the canal take great pride in the grounds around the lock.  Most are park-like with picnic tables and benches, inviting the considerable numbers of people who come to watch the lock traffic.

An abstract of the backside of the dam at Lock E15, featuring
reflections of the chains which operate the metal plates and
the steel guides.

Abstract of the Grande Mariner's wake
leaving Lock E15, with chain reflection
in the upper left corner.

The view under one of the two guard gates with an abandoned bridge in the distance as we near the intersection of the canal and the Mohawk River just east of Little Falls.  I think this is Guard Gate E3.

Looking back at Five-Mile Dam on the Mohawk River.  The Grande Mariner has completed its run on the canal and, heading west toward Little Falls, has rejoined the river.

What a beautiful day for a cruise.

Lock E14 at Canajoharie

Lock E14 and its dam as seen from the east

Westbound boaters approaching locks on the Erie Canal with removable dams prefer that the major flow of water being released through the dam be as far away from the lock as possible.  When the situation is otherwise, a whirlpool can form in advance of the lock making piloting vessels into the chamber extra difficult.  The higher the water the more serious the problem.

Such was the case today.  The gates closest to the lock were open full.  The water this late spring/early summer is near-record high.  And, there was wind, as well -- blowing front right to back left.

The chief engineer was piloting the boat.  The bow started in OK, but with the competing current and wind the craft didn't have enough momentum to carry it straight .  (When conditions are ideal, the Grand Mariner with some momentum can enter a lock using the bow thrusters primarily for direction.)  The pilot lost control of the back of the boat and the boat hit the port-side entrance to the lock -- hard.  In the end and to keep damage to a minimum the captain took the helm, backed the boat downstream, realigned and began again.  With his decisive (aggressive) use of the propellers, rudder and bow thrusters, the Grand Mariner overcame the current and slipped into the lock.


Crisis averted, we are rising in the lock.
The one with the radio is the first mate.

The photograph to the right is a scene repeated lock after lock after lock.  I've already noted a deck hand gets off the vessel goes to the top of the lock to hold the line while the Grande Mariner is in the lock.  I think of it was walking the boat.  Also, a member of the crew is stationed on the lock-side side of the boat and communicates with the captain, who, with the pilot house lowered to the deck while on the Eric Canal, cannot see the boat's position.  How many feet he has between the lock wall on the bow and on the stern is updated constantly while the craft is in the lock.

We needed to take on potable water -- and to get over all the excitement, so we ate lunch while in the lock.  Another memorable meal, this one for both the roasted red pepper soup and the lobster sandwiches.  Oh, my ...  I suspect there's going to begin some major weight recalibration the minute we return home!

For all the mischief it caused the dam at Lock E14 is a beautiful structure.

Amsterdam morning

I had the lounge and deck to myself for a luxurious length of time this morning -- after a memorable night.  Our cabin is on the starboard side of the upper deck, which allows us a window that opens.  The fresh air is welcome, but it came with something of a price here in Amsterdam.  A steady procession of trains.  They didn't keep me awake.  Rather, they were a part of my sleeping.  "Ah, a train," I'd think and drift off again.  I shall always remember Amsterdam -- and that double set of tracks -- with fondness.

This is the sight that awaited me when I stepped out on deck.  I am a little puzzled at the apparent sunrise since I was facing WNW.  But, it was an expansive scene nonetheless.  And, the light in the trees on the right side of the image?  Yes, a train approacheth!

And, while I'm thinking about our starboard side cabin here's a view of it.  The bathroom is at my left shoulder and the dresser to my right.  It's small but efficient, with absolutely no extra steps required.  That said, it's interesting when we both stand up at the same time!  Someone rising early getting out in the morning is almost a necessity.

The morning's travel was leisurely, but steady, taking us through Locks E12 (Tribes Hill) and 13 (Randall) before lunch.  Along the way Sam pointed out to us on our port side a good section of an original aqueduct which canal traffic used when crossing Schoharie Creek.  And, we made our way through a section of the Mohawk River valley known as the "noses," a break in the Adirondack Mountain chain that is judged to have been as important to the opening of this country to the west as was the Cumberland Gap.  The New York Thruway, the original canal, the Mohawk River and the railroad all squeeze through the same space.  A cruise ship sailing through the middle of New York state gets considerable attention from motorists on the interstate!



Looking west on the Mohawk River at the Noses.



Waterford Flight

I write this in our little cabin aboard the Grande Mariner.  We are moored for the night just west of Lock 11 at Amsterdam NY.  Except for frequent, long* trains which pass by within 150 feet, all is quiet.  What a day we have had.  I am too overwhelmed and thrilled by our journey to chronicle all of it.  So, a few words and several photographs before I turn out my little reading light.

We reached the Mohawk River today, travelling on the actual Hudson River less than two miles before turning left at Waterford and entering the Erie Canal.  The canal system is treated much like a highway.  The signs at major intersections look much like the road signs we're all used to seeing and, mostly, obeying.

We passed through the five locks of the Waterford Flight over the course of the morning.  In only 1.5 miles the series of locks manages a lift of 170 feet -- the largest lift in the shortest distance of any system in the world -- and gets the traveller to the level of, and around, Cohoes Falls.  Our historian tells us the falls are strikingly beautiful from the downstream side, the Mohawk's Niagara, but are pretty boring from above -- unless, of course, you are adrift and heading toward them with no good way to propel your craft upstream to safety.  Then, the view -- and everything else -- is pretty exciting!

* The first train we saw as we exited the lock had eleven engines.

Here's a look at our day.

Remember the song about the Erie Canal?  "Low bridge, ev'rybody down!  Low bridge, for we're comin' to a town."  Having left the Hudson River, our ship faced its first tight underpass, the bridge to Peebles Island, in the boat harbor at Waterford.  The doors to Lock E2 are visible on the left side of the photograph.  Though the Federal Lock is not part of the Erie Canal and is not officially Lock #1, it is counted as such and the numbering on the canal begins with 2.)

The view back from inside Lock E3.  The ship below is the Day Peckinpaugh.  Built in 1921 it was the first motor ship expressly designed to navigate both the open water of the Great Lakes and the NY State Barge Canal.  It is now a feature of the Waterford Maritime Historical Society.

At each lock a member of the crew has to ascend to the top of the lock and tie off the Grand Mariner.  Once the lift is complete and the ship has cleared the lock the crew member leaps back aboard on the after deck.  Being fit seems to be part of the deal.

A view of Lock E4 from the top of Lock E5.  It is evident from the hills in the distance that we are gaining some altitude.

The second of two guard gates at the top of the flight of locks, which protect the Waterford Flight and the town of Waterford. 

Twin Bridges, aka Thaddeus Kosciusko Bridge, carries traffic on I-87 from Colonie NY to Halfmoon NY.  While on the East and the Hudson Rivers, I photographed every bridge we passed under, but gave up that practice after leaving the Hudson.  These two spans were too graceful not to document.




Detail at Lock E7
The colors used on the
Erie Canal -- buildings,
locks, boats -- are blue
and yellow.



Lock E7 marks the last of the permanent dams along the Erie Canal.



And, at Lock E8 we encountered the first of the removable dams.  Large steel plates which fit between uprights slide up and down to regulate the flow of water.  When the navigation season ends, the steel plates are lifted and the uprights swing up clear of the water.



Some of the gears which operate the gates at Lock E11



The Grande Mariner moored above Lock E11 for the night.  It was here in Amsterdam that the reporters caught up with the captain.  This is the first cruise ship through the canal this season and is, thereby, newsworthy -- especially after the spring this part of the world has endured. 

We were treated to some evening entertainment: Skip Parsons' Jazz Trio.  The passing trains only competed a little bit, not stopping us from tapping our toes even once.